10.16.18 - 10.17.18
Kolkata to Paro, Bhutan to Thimphu
Well it was a good thing I was already awake when the festival drumming wake-up sounded across the neighborhood at 6:45 AM - whether you ordered it or not.
Our day did not begin as planned when our morning flight to Bhutan didn't happen and we were forced to take a 3 PM flight instead. And, even though we left for the airport at 11:30 AM because of the traffic-clogged streets of the ongoing festival, it was touch and go at the Bhutan Airways check-in counter as all activity was so slow it practically came to a halt. Suddenly that 1.5 hour cushion was disappearing quickly thanks to the painful pace of only 2 ticket agents.
The security checkpoint was another choke hold, and we women had to put the usual items on the belt then walk away to these pink-covered tents 2 belts away for a body pat-down from one of the female agents. Of course they were taking their sweet time, and all we could do was hope that no one was helping themselves to our belongings while we were being pat down. I couldn't wait to escape!
After all that, we walked to our gate where there was no plane and no message on the signboard. So, needing a beer badly, Brian and I headed to the closest bar/restaurant, downed a beer and returned to find that our plane magically appeared during our absence. We finally departed 15 minutes late and thankfully had an uneventful trip to Paro.
Our guide, Yeshi, with an 85-year old Bhutanese farmer
This 90-year old woman came all the way from Tibet
to pray at the stupa.
Our next stop was the bronze Great Buddha Dordenma, built on the site of the Kuensel Phodrang Palace ruins, to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the 4th king Jigme Singye Wangchuck (2006-2015). At 177 feet high it is one of the largest Buddha statues in the world. And inside the statue there are over 100,000 smaller bronze Buddha statues gilded in gold.
Stupa at the entrance to the Great Buddha.
Getting to be a familiar sight on this trip...
We spent some time exploring the Bhutan National Library and Archives, with a vast collection of ancient books, manuscripts and framed photographs of the kings and their families.
Our last stop before heading back to the hotel was a visit to the Takin Preserve to see the takin, the national animal of Bhutan, who according to Bhutanese myth, is a cow-goat hybrid.
Oops...a few more things to mention...
After all that running around we were of course tired and thirsty, so, in the interest of learning and discovery, we asked Yeshi about happy hours in Bhutan. And sure enough they had them as well. So he took us to a local bar/restaurant where we enjoyed the local beer, Druk, some grain alcohol whiskey (one sniff was enough for me), and some momos (potstickers/dumplings).
Karen truly enjoyed herself.
Kolkata to Paro, Bhutan to Thimphu
Well it was a good thing I was already awake when the festival drumming wake-up sounded across the neighborhood at 6:45 AM - whether you ordered it or not.
Our day did not begin as planned when our morning flight to Bhutan didn't happen and we were forced to take a 3 PM flight instead. And, even though we left for the airport at 11:30 AM because of the traffic-clogged streets of the ongoing festival, it was touch and go at the Bhutan Airways check-in counter as all activity was so slow it practically came to a halt. Suddenly that 1.5 hour cushion was disappearing quickly thanks to the painful pace of only 2 ticket agents.
The security checkpoint was another choke hold, and we women had to put the usual items on the belt then walk away to these pink-covered tents 2 belts away for a body pat-down from one of the female agents. Of course they were taking their sweet time, and all we could do was hope that no one was helping themselves to our belongings while we were being pat down. I couldn't wait to escape!
After all that, we walked to our gate where there was no plane and no message on the signboard. So, needing a beer badly, Brian and I headed to the closest bar/restaurant, downed a beer and returned to find that our plane magically appeared during our absence. We finally departed 15 minutes late and thankfully had an uneventful trip to Paro.
On the way to Thimphu.
Before we left for our trip, it was strongly suggested that we bring ear plugs to block out the sounds of wild dogs roaming the streets and barking all night long. I always carry many since my trip to Vietnam, but I decided to use the ones provided by the hotel - and trust me, they were well appreciated! (In Bhutan we were warned by our trip leader not to be out after 8 PM because of roaming packs of dogs - not people)!
The next morning we were well on our way to a full day exploration of Thimphu (the capital of Bhutan)...
Interesting factoids about Bhutan:
- located in the Eastern Himalayas
- bordered by Tibet, China, India and Nepal
- Thimphu is the capital
- main religions are Buddhism and Hinduism
- unification 1616-1634
- Indo-Bhutan treaty 1949
- UN membership 1971
- Democratic Constitutional Monarchy 2008
- population approximately 798,000 in 2016
- pioneered the concept of gross national happiness
- one of the world's top 10 biodiversity hotspots
What is the concept of gross national happiness?(GNH)
In 1972, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the 4th King of Bhutan came up with the concept of GNH, which embraces 9 domains of happiness and the 4 pillars of GNH: sustainable and equitable socio-economic development; environmental conservation; preservation and promotion of culture and good governance.
The 9 domains of happiness:
- psychological well-being
- health
- time usage
- education
- cultural diversity and resilience
- good governance
- community vitality
- ecological diversity and resilience
- living standards
The National Memorial Chorten (Thimphu stupa), built in 1974 to honor the third Druk Gyalpo, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck (1928-1972), was our first stop of the day. It is considered to be the most visible religious landmark in Bhutan. Many Bhutanese come here to pray and meditate while circling the stupa and turning the prayer wheels.
Our guide, Yeshi, with an 85-year old Bhutanese farmer
and 65-year old woman who maintains the votive candles.
This 90-year old woman came all the way from Tibet
to pray at the stupa.
In keeping with the Bhutanese GNH concept to improve physical health and life expectancy, there have been several small "gyms" added to the countryside - where you can just pull over your car, hop out and do a few reps. Here our driver, Possang, and our guide,Yeshi, demonstrate good form while soaking up an incredible view (ha ha).
Our next stop was the bronze Great Buddha Dordenma, built on the site of the Kuensel Phodrang Palace ruins, to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the 4th king Jigme Singye Wangchuck (2006-2015). At 177 feet high it is one of the largest Buddha statues in the world. And inside the statue there are over 100,000 smaller bronze Buddha statues gilded in gold.
Stupa at the entrance to the Great Buddha.
Getting to be a familiar sight on this trip...
We spent some time exploring the Bhutan National Library and Archives, with a vast collection of ancient books, manuscripts and framed photographs of the kings and their families.
Outside the library, there was a very skilled artisan working with pine to create some incredible art, particularly ceremonial masks that he and Yeshi had a good time demonstrating for us.
After we left the library, we stopped for a Kodak moment of the new government/financial buildings in the valley.
Our last stop before heading back to the hotel was a visit to the Takin Preserve to see the takin, the national animal of Bhutan, who according to Bhutanese myth, is a cow-goat hybrid.
The preserve was originally a zoo, but when it closed and the animals were set free in the surrounding forest, the takin refused to leave the area and wandered the neighborhoods in search of food instead. As a result, they began to starve so it was decided to save them by building the new enclosure at the preserve.
Oops...a few more things to mention...
Archery is the national sport of Bhutan, and just outside the front windows of our hotel we could see 2 practice areas where several men (never saw any female participants) would practice their skills the length of the field from one end to the other, trying to hit a target most of us could barely see. It was amazing to watch. They were even practicing in the early evening under the lights. I would not recommend trying to cross the field or wander off the path, especially during then. So remember no going out at night - if the dogs don't get you the archers might.
We also made short stops at a textile shop and a family-owned paper factory.
After all that running around we were of course tired and thirsty, so, in the interest of learning and discovery, we asked Yeshi about happy hours in Bhutan. And sure enough they had them as well. So he took us to a local bar/restaurant where we enjoyed the local beer, Druk, some grain alcohol whiskey (one sniff was enough for me), and some momos (potstickers/dumplings).
If my currency converter is correct, a bottle of Druk in the hotel only cost me $3.50 US.
Karen truly enjoyed herself.
Momos - beef dumplings/potstickers.
Bhutan has only one main road and one unusual traffic light...
Sounds like another amazing journey. Thanks for sharing
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