11.4.18 In the Last Stretch...
             Sarnath, Saris and the Last Supper

This morning we change our focus to the Buddhist religion when we drive to the Buddhist learning center at Sarnath. This is where Gautama Buddha preached his first sermon to his disciples in a location marked by the Indian Buddha and the bodhi tree.

Dressed for the occasion, Ashish provides 

some background information about Gautama Buddha 

and the Indian Buddha.

Very nearby, with very obvious differences, 

is the Chinese happy Buddha.

Towering over the grounds, at 80 feet high, is India's tallest Grand Buddha statue, unveiled in March 2011, with a joint ceremony by both Thai and Indian leaders.

Despite the damage done by the Turks over the years, the Dhamek Stupa, Dharmarajika Stupa, Chaukhandi Stupa and the Ashoka Pillar are preserved among the ruins.

Dhamek Stupa

Treasures inside the Sarnath Museum...

Ashoka Pillar (about 250 BCE)

Emblem of India since 1950

Buddha in preaching posture.

Riding on a Leogriph
(5th century A.D.)

Tara
(11th century A.D.)

Bodhisattva Maitreya
(5th century A.D.)

Image of Kartikeya
(Late Medieval)

And easily the highlight of the museum - besides the Ashoka Pillar -
the 10-armed, bearded, fully-armed with various weaponry 
Lord Shiva, killing Andhak, the demon of darkness.
(12th Century CE)

Chamunda, Ganesha & Parvati
(Terrifying Skeletal Deity, Elephant-headed God & Consort of Shiva)
(10th century C.E.)

Back to the bus for a return to our hotel, but before we depart Ashish conducts our routine bus bazaar, which helps the local vendors and keeps their harassment of us to a minimum.  He reminds me of an auctioneer - even though the prices are non-negotiable.

Ashish working his magic...

I love the intent expressions on the faces of the vendors - 

hoping their particular item is the one visitors will buy.

The last event before our farewell dinner is modeling saris (I nominated myself as the photographer so I could forgo that opportunity - just not me - go figure...)

Ashish and his harem.

11.3.18 Varanasi, the Holiest of Hindu Cities


Varanasi factoids...

• known as Benares during British times
• one of the oldest cities in the world with a written history dating back more than 4,000 years
• home to hundreds of temples and riverside ghats
• spiritual capital of India
• Hindu pilgrims worldwide come to bathe in the sacred waters of the Ganges River and gather to watch funeral rites every day

We board our boat to witness the festivities celebrating life and death. Crowd estimates along the river are about 15,000 people!

Our very young riverboat captain.

Temples.

Multiple cremations.

Karen and Gerhard make a wish 

before placing their floating candles into the river.

A young priest comes aboard to offer us blessings.

Here are some video clips of the festivities during the aarti, the sacred light ceremony...

https://youtu.be/VsHjJiDx6Io

https://youtu.be/bTUdxtf-I_Y

https://youtu.be/Vk1dqot3ZSI

https://youtu.be/2wlkAzHqsNk

11.3.18 The Kama Sutra - Love and Prana                             Energy in Hindu Thought

After a very long travel day by train and bus we arrive in Khajuraho, which was the center of a thriving Chandelas civilization in the 10th century. Within easy walking distance of our hotel, we find the Khajuraho Group of Monuments, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, built between the 9th and 10th centuries by the Chandela Dynasty, which dominated Central India during that time.

That's Michele - not a statue (ha ha)

And, as so often happened on this trip, a "learning and discovery" event occurs spontaneously when we see people running after the Jain monks, who were pretty easy to spot since their vows require them to shed all clothing as part of their renunciation of all worldly things. Apparently they visit temples throughout India, staying for approximately 4 months at a time, carrying only a fan made of peacock feathers and water. Some also carry scriptures. 

Part of the initiation process during the last step of achieving monasticism is for the monk to walk naked amid people without any indication of sensory response in order to prove he is focused on his calling. In most sects there is a hand pulling of bodily hair, which in modern times follows their hair being shaved.

The temple carvings are incredibly intricate and stunning. Many of them focus on the Kama Sutra and pleasure.

Even Ganesh, often portrayed riding a small mouse, 

enjoys its location in this carving.

Mike said more people would take yoga 

if they knew it would make them this limber.

What impressed me most was the detail in the facial expressions 

and fingers.  I love the look on the leftmost lady's face.

Our guide said this was the only smiling elephant. 

He is truly enjoying some serious voyeurism.

Beautiful carvings in one of the smaller temples.